Tuning Guide

WASZP Tuning Guide & Control Setup

This guide will help you tune your WASZP for optimized stability and performance. It will run through a good base setting for the systems that control your flight and touch on a few aspects of sail control and tuning that may seem foreign to you. Having a well set up boat will make for a much better sailing experience and reduce the chance of component failure.

Deck Push Rod

The pushrod runs from the reversing lever to the front of the Ride Height Adjuster (RHA). Its length is important because it determines the usable adjustment range of the RHA.

A good starting length is 405 mm, measured from the center of the bolt at the reversing lever to the center of the bolt at the Ride Height Adjuster. From there, adjust the rod length as needed to make sure you have a useful range of ride-height adjustment.

Once the length is set, secure it with the locknut at the front end and strong Loctite at the rear terminal.

If you need to remove the pushrod, the easiest method is to remove the RHA and reversing lever bolts, detach the front terminal, and slide the pushrod out toward the rear of the boat.

You do not need to remove the pushrod from the boat simply to adjust its length.

Pull Rod

The hull pull rod connects the reversing lever to the wand axle and plays an important role in keeping the ride-height control system moving freely.

As a starting point, the reversing lever should be close to square with the boat when the wand is approximately 30 degrees aft of vertical. This alignment helps minimize friction and binding in the system.

To adjust the position, disconnect the terminal from the reversing lever and rotate the terminal to change the effective length of the pull rod. Reconnect it and check the alignment again.

Once the setup is correct, apply Loctite to all terminal ends and screws before final assembly to help prevent anything from working loose while sailing.

Gearing, Wand Bungee, Wand Limiter (3 Sections)

These three adjustments work together to help you control the boat's height on the foils.
These will vary with conditions and sailing style. We suggest that as you get more experienced, experiment and tune your WASZP to suit your sailing style and location.

(1) Gearing

The gearing screw is located inside the bonnet at the bow of the WASZP and controls the relationship between wand movement and foil flap movement.

A longer screw setting creates higher gearing, meaning the flap moves more for a given amount of wand movement. A shorter setting reduces gearing and flap movement.

In larger waves, more gearing helps the ride-height system react more aggressively and maintain a more consistent height above the water. In flatter conditions, less gearing allows the boat to ride higher and more freely, which can improve speed and make takeoff easier.

Experienced sailors can often use very little gearing in flat water, with the screw wound almost completely in.

As a starting point:

• Flat water: wind the screw all the way in, then back it out 1 to 2 turns.
• Medium to large waves: wind the screw all the way in, then back it out 2 to 4 turns.

From there, fine-tune the setting based on sea state, boat control, and how actively you want the ride-height system to respond.

(2) Wand Bungee

The wand bungee should be tight enough to keep the wand lightly skimming the surface of the water without creating unnecessary drag or turbulence.

More bungee tension tends to make the boat feel slightly more connected, or “stuck,” to the water. Less tension allows the boat to feel freer and can reduce drag. In most conditions, the best setting is somewhere in the middle rather than at either extreme.

If you find that you need a large amount of bungee tension just to pull the wand forward properly, check the control system for friction or mechanical binding. Excessive tension should not be required to overcome a problem elsewhere in the system.

(3) Wand Limiter

The wand limiter is an important tuning tool because it controls how far forward the wand can travel when it clears the water.

A shorter limiter keeps the boat riding higher, even when the wand is no longer in contact with the surface. A longer limiter allows the wand to move farther forward when it clears the water, giving the system more range to react.

As a general rule, a shorter setting works well in lighter wind and flatter water, while a longer setting is better suited to gusty, wavy, or more difficult conditions.

A good starting point is to set the limiter so the wand stops at approximately vertical. From there, shorten it if you are comfortable with the boat and sailing in easy conditions. Lengthen it if you are struggling to keep the foils immersed, particularly if you are experiencing nosedives downwind.

The elasticity of the limiter is also part of the tuning. A common setup is approximately two-thirds rope and one-third bungee, providing a balance between a positive stop and some controlled movement.

Gantry Angle

The base gantry setting determines how much lift the rudder foil produces while sailing, making it an important part of the boat’s overall balance.

Too little rudder lift can allow the bow to ride too high, particularly in light air and when sailing upwind. Too much rudder lift can push the bow down and increase the risk of nosediving when bearing away or sailing downwind, especially as the breeze builds.

A gantry setting of approximately 18 to 22 mm is a good starting point. From there, you can fine-tune the setting based on conditions, sailing style, and the balance you are looking for on the water.

Rudder Trim

Your rudder trim should be at maximum lift (rudder pin the front of the rudder box slot) during take-off and in upwind mode and minimum lift (rudder pin at the back of the rudder box slot) when sailing downwind in big wind and big waves.

If you are not sailing with these parameters, then you may need to adjust your gantry angle.

Sail Setup (2 sections)

The two primary sail tuning adjustments are camber spacer setup and batten tension.

Camber spacers control the shape and depth at the front of the sail, while the batten tensioners fine-tune the overall sail shape and power. Getting both settings right provides the foundation for an efficient, balanced sail setup.

(1) Camber Spacing

Cam spacers help control the depth and smoothness of the front of the sail. Adding spacers makes the sail fuller forward and helps smooth the luff pocket. Too many spacers, however, can prevent the cams from rotating properly.

Use the recommended spacer table as your starting point, counting the battens from the top. Rig the sail and apply moderate downhaul and outhaul tension. With the battens and cams popped onto either tack, inspect the luff pocket on the leeward side of the sail.

If you see a crease running through the luff pocket, that is a sign you may need to add cam spacers. Make changes gradually and confirm that the cams still rotate cleanly from tack to tack.

With a new sail, avoid making major cam-spacing changes immediately. Give the sail a few sailing sessions to stretch and settle before reviewing the setup and making your final adjustments.

As a starting point, we advise the following number of spacers with the following cams (Counting battens from the top)

Batten	Cam Type	Cam Spacers	Notes
2	ATKA47	2
3	ATKA52	3	Use the thicker flat ones
4	ATKA68	1-2	Use the curved ones
5	ATKA68	1-2	Use the curved ones
6	ATKA68	1-2	Use the curved ones

 

(2) Batten Tension

Batten tension has a significant effect on sail shape and power. In general, increasing batten tension adds shape to the sail, but only to a point. Too much tension can begin to loosen the leech between the battens, effectively depowering the sail.

A good baseline is to tighten each batten until the wrinkles immediately beside the batten pocket just disappear. This provides a strong starting point for maximum power.

As the wind increases, begin reducing tension in the upper part of the sail. From your maximum-power setting, try loosening the top batten three turns, the second batten two turns, and the third batten one turn. Leave the remaining battens unchanged.

Batten tension is also something worth checking regularly, especially with a new sail. As the sail and battens settle in, the tension will naturally change. Make it part of your routine to check the battens, re-tighten when necessary, and adjust the setup for the conditions.

Gavin Ball Notes

Gavin was kind enough to develop some additional notes for the North American Classes.  See below for his hard won data!

(PLATFORM) Hiking Strap & Tramps

Tighten your hiking straps and tramps. If you can’t feel the boat, you can’t learn how the boat should feel.

Wet everything first, then tighten the straps and tramps as much as possible. Once they are tight, inflate the bladder, preferably with a pump, to 1.2 psi. This will help take out the final bit of slack and get everything properly tensioned.

There is a reason this is the first item in this document. It matters.

(SAIL) Boom Height

It is important to have the full range of motion available in your outhaul and vang system.

Keep the boom as long as possible, use short blocks tied in tight, and make sure the boom loop is snug. This will maximize the available range of your outvang system and allow you to use the full range of sail controls, especially with the 8.2 and 7.5 sails.

 

 

(SAIL) Battens

While capsized on land I go for a straight leach profile with a slight hook.

(SAIL) Spacers

Use as many as possible without restricting rotation or stretching the luff sock. The tension should be firm enough that you can pinch the fabric with your fingernails, but not loose enough to grab it between your fingers.

(MAINFOIL) Wand Retainer